Friday, June 24, 2011

Sapa, Vietnam



Every now and then, I would go on an adventure and it's every bit as rewarding as I had hoped. That place is Sapa, Vietnam. Situated in the northwest region of the country not far from the China border where live the ethnic minorities such as H'mong, Zhao and Tay there is a captivating frontier town called Sa Pa (or Sapa, known by westerners). Its breathtaking peaks and valleys are truly epic. Sapa's cool climate and lush vegetation make the place ideal for crops such as rice, corn and indigo plants. Its people, the various native subgroups, are friendly, down-to-earth and hardworking folks who take great pride in cultivating their land and upholding their enduring customs and way of life.



The layer of fog in the above photo looms in the distant mountains, adding a mythical and mystical touch of atmospheric haze to the scene. In the far right and at the base of the mountains is Cat-Cat Village, home of the Black H'mong tribe.




Perched high on a mountaintop is this ramshackle hut, a typical architectural design found in the region. Isolated and introverted by nature, its basic foundation and humble structure may not invite too many discussions, but it has a view we all envy.




A Black H'mong woman is at work on her embroidery by the front entrance of her home. Her semi-circle necklace, dangling silver earrings and leg wraps are typical of her people's daily wear. Also common are the plastic slippers worn by the natives as they take their daily treks down the steep slippery mountainous terrain, often carrying baskets of cargo and/or babies on their backs.



The tilt-shift technique is appropriated to the above scene showing locals making their daily treks into town. My friend, Charles, likens this photo to the work of David Levinthal who captures his subjects with the lens blur effect and using miniatures to give viewers a sense of voyeurism, a subject Levinthal often explores in his art.




On the very top step of this organic staircase is a small speck of a rooster belonging to another ramshackle hut. The staircase appears to be leading up to a clothing store which sits adjacent to a possible outhouse. To the right of the outhouse appears to be a home carved into the base of a terrain. I'm curious to know if that rooster hopped up from the foot of the stairs, how many steps there are to this staircase and how many people reside in that home? What the function is with the smaller hut...an outhouse...a smoke house...an extended living quarter...or a separate kitchen? I regret not being able to spend more time in this region to explore my questions.




Another tilt-shift photo of four H'mong locals walking through the rice paddies. Not only are these man-made patterns aesthetically pleasing to see, one can truly appreciate the labor and agricultural prowess demonstrated by the Sapa residents.   


With a face marking the signs of her years, this woman with her bamboo stick posed for us. Her clothing is typical of the Black H'mong tribe. On closer examination, we can almost see that most adult H'mongs have their fingers stained of purple dye, a pigment extracted from the indigo plant native to their region. They use the dye for their clothing and in many of their beautiful handiwork and embroidery.


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